Home > Pet Advice > How to Rehome Your Dog or Cat: A Step-by-Step Guide
How to Rehome Your Dog or Cat: A Step-by-Step Guide
Rehoming a pet is never an easy decision. Whether you’re facing personal changes, housing issues, or your pet’s needs have changed, it’s important to ensure they end up in a safe and loving home. This guide will walk you through the process to help you rehome your pet responsibly.
1. Decide if Rehoming is the Only Option
Before rehoming your pet, consider whether it’s absolutely necessary. With a bit of extra support, you may be able to keep your pet. Animal shelters and rescue groups have limited space and in most cases, there won’t be a line of people eager to take in your pet. There are unfortunately a lot more pets needing homes than people looking to adopt.
While there are unavoidable situations where rehoming is the best or only option, keeping your pet with you is still sometimes the best option. Some situations are also temporary or solvable. Click the reason below that best matches your situation for targeted advice:
General Surrender Reasons
Allergies
The first step is to visit your GP to confirm whether you’re actually allergic to your pet. Many people assume their cat or dog is the cause, but the reaction may be triggered by something else in the environment. If a pet allergy is confirmed, there are several options that may help you keep your pet.
Most cat allergies are caused by a protein called Fel d 1 found in saliva, dander, and skin. Strictly feeding the Purina Pro Plan LiveClear cat food has been shown to significantly reduce the presence of Fel d 1 in cat hair and dander in about 3 weeks. This alone could solve or significantly help the allergy problem.
For both dog and cat allergies:
Vacuuming regularly (ideally with a HEPA filter) and using air purifiers can help to reduce dander and therefore help with your allergy. Increasing airflow by opening windows can also help.
Keep pets out of bedrooms and consider allergy-reducing bedding
Avoid letting your pet lick your skin or clothes and wash your hands after contact
Consult your GP or an allergist for medications or long-term treatment options
Brush your pet outdoors (preferably by someone who isn’t allergic)
For cats, consider building a secure outdoor run so they can enjoy time outside while reducing indoor allergen levels.
If you’ve had a baby who is severely allergic, rehoming may be necessary for your child’s safety.
Travel or Moving Overseas or Interstate
I am going travelling
If you’re going away for a few weeks or months and can’t bring your pet, ask friends or family to pet-sit or temporarily care for your pet. If no one is available, contact local boarding facilities. Some vet clinics may also offer short-term boarding although usually just for cats.
I am moving interstate or overseas
Pets can usually travel to other states or overseas and pet transport companies can assist. The cost to use a pet transport company varies widely based on the company used and service provided.
Use a pet transport company like JetPets, Dogtainers, or Dogmovers. Some offer road or air travel options depending on location and budget. All 3 companies transport both dogs and cats.
Isn’ttravellingtoostressfulformypet? The majority of pets are totally fine and safe to travel and a short period of travel stress will typically be far less stressful for your pet than moving to an unfamiliar environment such as a new home or a shelter where they could take weeks or months to settle in.
If you are unable to afford the transport costs, consider asking friends or family for assistance or doing a fundraiser. Consider delaying your move until you can afford to bring your pet with you.
Landlord Said No
Check the laws for your state. Landlords and strata plans in states like NSW and Victoria can’t impose blanket pet bans or unreasonably refuse pets without a valid reason. If there are other issues such as complaints about dogs barking, please see our information about barking.
Having or Had a Baby
Many people feel pressure to rehome their pet after having a baby, often due to concerns about time, safety, hygiene, or misinformation. But with the right support and adjustments, most pets can remain part of the family and even enrich a child’s life.
For Dog Owners:
Supervision is key: Never leave a dog alone with a baby or toddler. Use baby gates or playpens to separate spaces when needed.
Training & management: Address jumping, barking, or resource guarding before baby arrives. Work with a positive reinforcement trainer if needed.
Routine & enrichment: Keep the dog’s routine as stable as possible. Puzzle toys, sniff walks, and chew items help reduce boredom.
Involve the dog: Teach them to lie on a mat nearby during feeds or nappy changes to feel included but calm.
For Cat Owners:
Toxoplasmosis risk is low. Research shows the most common source of toxoplasmosis is actually raw or undercooked meat, not pet cats. Most indoor cats also don’t carry it. If you’re pregnant, avoid handling litter if possible (or wear gloves and wash hands), scoop litter daily (the parasite becomes infectious after 24+ hours) and don’t feed your cat raw meat. For more info, visit the CDC website.
Stress-free spaces: Create quiet areas for your cat, especially as babies become mobile. High shelves or cat scratches and baby-gated rooms can help.
Create positive associations: Before or after your baby arrives, help your cat get used to the new smells and sounds in a gentle, positive way. This will help your cat link the baby’s presence (and all the new things that come with it) to positive experiences, rather than stress or fear. For example:
Play recordings of baby noises (like crying or cooing) quietly at first while giving your cat treats and pats or during playtime.
Let your cat sniff baby items and then immediately reward them with something they enjoy. This could be a treat, chin scratch, or toy. Of course ensure that they don’t lick or come into direct contact with anything toxic (e.g. some baby powders) to cats.
Remember:
Pets are part of the family and can form strong bonds with children.
In addition to the above, it’s essential to teach your child to be respectful and gentle when interacting with your pet.
Rehoming doesn’t have to be the default. There are usually safer, easier ways to manage concerns with professional help.
If you’re struggling, contact a vet, trainer, or animal behaviourist for advice before making any major decisions.
Can’t Afford Vet Bill
If a sudden or ongoing vet expense is making you consider rehoming your pet, you’re not alone – many pet owners face this situation at some point. The good news is there may be options to get help without giving up your pet.
1. Talk to Your Vet
Be honest with your vet about your financial situation. Some vet clinics are willing to offer payment plans, discounts, or prioritise urgent over routine care.
Ask whether lower-cost alternatives are available for treatment or medication.
2. Look for Financial Assistance
Several organisations offer help with vet costs for eligible pet owners. Examples include:
VetPay or Zip Pay (finance options for vet care)
Pet Medical Crisis – If you are in VIC, on a pension and experiencing financial hardship and have exhausted other options, apply for help.
RSPCA (Yagoona) or Animal Welfare League NSW (Kemps Creek) contact both of these organisations to see if they could assist with reduced-cost services and/or a payment plan if you could get the animal to Yagoona or Kemps Creek. Additionally, you could reach out to an AWL NSW branch if you are near one of them to see if they may have any funds available to contribute to assist. Provide them with all the details so they can see if they could help.
If you are in the Campbelltown area of NSW, post on the CLFIP Facebook page for assistance.
Local rescue groups – some may assist with urgent financial care or help promote a fundraiser
3. Community Support
Consider starting a small fundraiser using platforms like GoFundMe.
Ask trusted family or friends if they’re in a position to help temporarily
4. Shop around – contact multiple vet clinics
Contact several vet clinics and university vet hospitals as costs may vary. Keep in mind that some vet clinics may want to first see the animal and/or receive the vet history from another vet before providing a quote.
Rehoming should be a last resort but if the vet costs are truly unmanageable and your pet needs urgent care, rehoming to an organisation who can provide that care may be the kindest option. If so, make sure to fully disclose the pet’s medical needs when finding a new home. You can contact rescue groups on PetRescue’s Rescue Directory. The information from step 2 onwards will still mostly be relevant to you.
Can’t Afford General Expenses
If you’re struggling to cover the general costs of pet care, you’re not alone. Many people experience financial hardship, especially during tough times. If not already done, follow our guide to reduce pet care costs which can help decrease ongoing costs by well over 20%.
If your situation is likely to be short-term (e.g. job loss, illness or other disruption), consider reaching out to local rescue groups to see if they may have pet food, litter or basic supplies that they could provide to you. Likewise, reach out to family or friends.
Getting help for a short time could allow you to keep your pet and avoid rehoming. If the situation is likely to be long-term or ongoing and rescue groups near you are unable to assist for an extended amount of time, go to step 2 for rehoming assistance.
No Time for the Pet
For Dog Owners:
Life can get busy, whether due to a new job, longer work hours, or more travel and many people feel they no longer have enough time for their dog. Dogs are social animals that usually need daily walks, mental stimulation, and human companionship.
Options to consider before surrendering:
Doggy daycare or pet sitters for when you’re away long hours
Dog walkers to provide exercise and company
Enrichment activities like puzzle toys, chew toys, and frozen Kongs
Adjust your schedule: Even short but consistent daily walks, play sessions, or training can make a big difference
Support from friends or neighbours who love dogs and might help by spending time with your dog when you aren’t around
Train for alone time: Gradually build your dog’s comfort with being alone to reduce anxiety-related behaviours
If the lack of time is ongoing and unlikely to improve, rehoming may be the kindest option so your dog can get the attention they deserve. However, keep in mind that rehoming doesn’t guarantee your dog will end up with someone who has more time for the rest of their life. There’s no such thing as a perfect home so staying with you may still be the best option. If you feel rehoming is still necessary, go to Step 2.
For Cat Owners:
Cats are generally more independent than dogs and often cope well with owners who work full-time. However, they still need daily care, food, fresh water, enrichment, and affection.
Tips to help a busy owner care for a cat:
Use auto feeders and water fountains to keep routines consistent
Set up window perches or cat trees for stimulation
Leave on TV, radio, or calming music during the day for company
Interactive toys or treat-dispensing puzzles for solo play
Dedicate just 10-15 minutes a day for quality bonding time
Unless you’re away for extended periods or your cat is particularly needy or anxious, many cats thrive even with busy owners. If you’re frequently travelling or gone for long stretches, a trusted friend or cat sitter can help fill the gap.
There’s no such thing as a ‘perfect’ home for any animal, and staying with you may still be the best option for your cat. Rehoming can also be challenging and time-consuming and there simply aren’t enough homes for every cat.
In most cases, it’s best to keep your cat so that cats who truly need rehoming have a better chance at finding a home.
Homeless
We understand that experiencing homelessness is incredibly stressful, and trying to care for a pet during this time can feel overwhelming. You’re not alone, and there may be help available.
If you are in NSW, you can reach out to Jewish House for urgent assistance with accommodation and other support on 1300 544 357. You do NOT need to be jewish to be eligible and they may accept some pets. RSPCA NSW may also be able to offer support when they have capacity.
If you believe your situation is temporary, reach out to local animal rescue groups or shelters. Some may offer crisis care, short-term foster arrangements, or may help with food, supplies, or vet care to support you and your pet while you get back on your feet.
Ask Izzy is a website that connects people in a crisis with services they need right now.
If your homelessness is ongoing or likely to continue, and you feel unable to provide for your pet’s needs, rehoming might be the kindest and safest option. Your pet deserves security, and giving them a stable environment may be the most loving thing you can do.
It’s okay to ask for help. There is no shame in reaching out – your love for your pet is clear by even considering what’s best for them in such a tough time. If needed, go to Step 2 to explore rehoming options.
Domestic or Family Violence
If you are in NSW, visit the RSPCA NSW website for resources and to request assistance. They also have links to other support services that may be able to help you and your pet.
For Brisbane and the Gold Coast, visit the AWLQ website for support options for your pet.
In other locations, contact your state’s RSPCA or local animal rescue groups – they may be able to assist or provide advice for temporarily care. You can also visit Ask Izzy is a website that connects people in a crisis with services they need right now and it might point you in the right direction.
If you believe rehoming your pet is the best and safest option, go to step 2.
Owner Moved into Aged Care or Passed Away
Sadly, many pets are surrendered when their elderly owner moves into an aged care facility that doesn’t allow animals, or when the owner passes away. These pets are often older themselves, deeply bonded with their person, and can struggle emotionally with the loss and sudden change in environment.
If you’re helping rehome a pet in this situation:
Act early if possible – If an owner is transitioning into care, making arrangements before the move (if possible) can reduce stress for both the person and the pet.
Speak with family, friends, or neighbours – Often someone close may be willing to take the pet but just hasn’t been asked.
Consider legacy pet care options – Some (usually larger) animal rescue organisations offer lifetime care and support for animals in these situations in exchange for a modest donation or a percentage in an estate.
It is never appropriate to euthanise a healthy pet simply because they are being separated from their owner. While the grief of losing a guardian can be significant, animals are often highly resilient and capable of forming new bonds. Euthanasia should only ever be considered if the pet is suffering from severe medical issues and their quality of life cannot be improved. With the right support, you can do the best thing for the former owner and help the pet transition into a new, loving home. Go to step 2 for further rehoming support and advice.
Unwanted Gift (e.g. Christmas Present)
Sometimes dogs or cats are received as gifts that the new owner was not prepared for. If the gift was given very recently, there may be an option to return the pet to the breeder, rescue group, or shelter where it came from. Always check the original adoption or purchase agreement and contact the source as soon as possible.
For guidance on avoiding this situation in the future, see our article Should I Get Someone a Pet for Christmas?, which explains why surprise pets can be problematic and how to gift a dog or cat responsibly.
If returning the animal is not possible, follow the steps in this guide carefully to try rehome your dog or cat safely, responsibly, and with the pet’s best interests in mind.
Dog Surrender Reasons
Barking Too Much
While it might seem like your dog is barking for no reason, dogs always bark for a reason. It’s their way of communicating. The key is to understand what’s triggering the barking so you can address the root cause rather than just the behaviour.
One of the most common causes of excessive barking is boredom or lack of mental stimulation. Dogs are intelligent, social animals who need regular interaction and enrichment. Without enough activity, they may bark to release frustration or simply to entertain themselves.
Another common trigger is external stimulation, such as people, dogs, or cars passing by the property. Many dogs will bark along the fence line because they can see or hear movement nearby.
Here are a few things you can do to reduce barking:
Block visual triggers: Install privacy screening, solid fencing, or hedging along areas where your dog can see out. Removing the visual stimulus often reduces the urge to bark.
Mask external noise: Play calming music or leave a TV or radio on inside to help block sudden noises that might set your dog off.
Increase mental and physical enrichment: Regular walks, training games, puzzle feeders, and interactive toys can help tire your dog out mentally and physically, making them less likely to bark out of boredom.
Avoid punishment: Yelling or punishing your dog for barking can increase anxiety and make the behaviour worse. Focus on redirecting and rewarding calm behaviour instead.
With a little patience and consistency, most barking issues can be significantly reduced or resolved. If the barking continues despite your efforts, consider speaking to a qualified dog trainer or veterinary behaviourist (speak to your vet) for personalised support. In some cases, medication prescribed by a vet can help the dog.
If you have tried everything above and still need to rehome your pet, go to the next step.
Escaping
If your dog keeps escaping, it can be incredibly stressful and dangerous for both your dog and the community. Whilst some dogs are surrendered for this reason, in many cases the issue can be managed or resolved with the right support. Before considering rehoming, ask yourself:
Why is the dog escaping? Common reasons include boredom, anxiety, lack of exercise or stimulation, or trying to find other dogs/people. You may need to adjust your approach based on the reason.
Is your yard secure enough? Check for weak points, gaps, low fences, or areas the dog can climb or dig under. Solutions might include:
Reinforcing fences
Adding dig-proof barriers (e.g. buried chicken wire or concrete along fence lines)
Installing a dog run or kennel for unsupervised times
Using coyote rollers or angled fencing to prevent climbing
Is your dog desexed? Undesexed dogs are much more likely to roam in search of a mate. Desexing can significantly reduce this behaviour and in some cases, can totally fix the escaping problem.
Is your dog getting enough exercise and enrichment? A tired dog is a happy (and less escape-prone) dog. Try daily walks, toys, puzzle feeders, sniff games, or doggy daycare (if your dog is social with other dogs).
Does your dog have separation anxiety? Escaping can be a symptom. In these cases, training, vet advice, and sometimes medication can help.
If you’ve truly tried everything and the escaping continues, rehoming may be the safest option, but only if done responsibly. A new home must be:
Fully secure and escape-proof
Aware of the dog’s history and management needs
Willing to invest time in training and enrichment
Go to step 2 to learn how to prepare your dog for rehoming.
Not Toilet Trained
With patience and the right approach, it is possible to teach almost any dog (including older dogs) to go to the toilet in the right spot. Some dogs have never been properly taught where to toilet, especially if they’ve come from a backyard-only home, puppy farm, or lived outdoors. Others may not toilet in the right spot due to stress, illness, or a change in routine. If the dog is older or used to go in the right spot and suddenly changed where they toilet, book them in for a vet visit to rule out issues like UTIs, incontinence or anxiety. Do not self-diagnose and treat these situations without professional advice.
How to Toilet Train a Dog Using Positive Reinforcement
Establish a Routine: Take your dog outside regularly. Ideally:
First thing in the morning
After meals
After naps or play
Before bed
Immediately if you notice them sniffing the ground (this may indicate they are about to toilet)
Pick a ‘Toilet Spot’: Take them to the same area each time. The familiar scent helps prompt them to go.
Reward Immediately: When your dog toilets in the right spot, praise enthusiastically and give a high-value treat right after they finish. Timing is key – don’t wait until they’re back inside. Do it within a few seconds of them finishing toileting.
Supervise Indoors: Keep an eye on your dog inside. If possible, initially confine them to a smaller, easy-to-clean area. Dogs typically avoid soiling their sleeping area.
Clean Accidents Properly: Use an enzyme cleaner (not just disinfectant) to clean and remove odours. If the smell remains, dogs may return to the same spot.
Never Punish: Scolding or rubbing their nose in it teaches fear, not toileting. It can delay training and harm your relationship with your dog. If your dog has an accident, simply ignore it and ensure no praise or reaction is given.
Unwanted or Unplanned Litter (Dogs)
If your dog has had an unexpected litter of puppies, it’s essential to act quickly and responsibly to give them the best start in life, and to avoid being overwhelmed. Many people underestimate just how hard it is to rehome multiple puppies safely, and very few people have a large and trusted network of people ready to adopt all the puppies.
Socialisation is extremely important to give them the best chance in life. Between 3 and 14 weeks of age, puppies go through a key developmental window where positive exposure to different people, environments, and gentle handling sets them up for life. Without proper socialisation, dogs may grow up fearful, reactive, or struggle in new situations. You can help by:
Allowing them to interact calmly with different people (adults and kids)
Exposing them to everyday sounds (TV, vacuum, traffic)
Introducing gentle handling of paws, ears, and mouth
Supervising play with safe adult dogs, if possible
Strike a balance between socialisation and risk of getting exposed to diseases as they are not fully vaccinated yet. Do not bring them to dog parks or for lengthy walks in the neighbourhood until they are fully vaccinated. This is to decrease the chance of them being exposed to a deadly disease such as parvovirus which can kill a puppy and be expensive to treat.
It is important that each puppy gets all vet work done before rehoming. This includes microchipping, vaccinating (potentially 2 vaccinations, depending on when they get rehomed), worming, flea treatment, and most importantly, desexing. Doing this not only ensures the puppies won’t go on to create more unwanted litters, but also greatly improves their chances of being adopted into good homes. In some Australian states, some of the vet work is mandatory and you can receive fines for not doing it prior to rehoming. Puppies should be kept with their mother until at least 8 weeks of age, but desexing can generally be done around 10-12 weeks, depending on the vet clinic.
If you can’t afford this level of care (which can cost thousands of dollars) or don’t feel confident managing socialisation and rehoming on your own, the best course of action is to contact a rescue groupas soon as possible. Some rescues can either:
Accept the entire litter into care
Support you as a temporary foster carer, give you supplies and advice to help out with the puppies until they’re ready for adoption
Assist with subsidised vet work and rehoming support
Trying to find homes yourself through online ads or friends often leads to long delays and in many cases, unsuitable or unsafe placements. Puppies rehomed for free, or without any vet work, are at much higher risk of neglect, abandonment, or being used for backyard breeding.
Rescue groups already have vet partnerships, thorough adoption screening processes, and usually a much larger adopter network than the average person. The earlier you involve them, the better the outcome for everyone — especially the pups. Don’t wait until the puppies are 12+ weeks old and you’re stuck before reaching out for help. By then, many rescues may be full and unable to assist. You’ll often hear, “We could’ve helped if you contacted us a month ago!” so contact them ASAP.
It’s also vital to desex the mother dog 2–3 months after giving birth to prevent this from happening again. Some rescue groups offer ‘last litter’ programs where, if you surrender the entire litter, they’ll desex the mum either for free or at a heavily reduced cost.
Dogs Not Getting Along
Living with two dogs that don’t get along with each other can be emotionally exhausting and potentially dangerous. If you’re seeing signs of serious conflict like growling, lunging, or fighting over food or space, it’s important not to ignore it. Fights can escalate quickly, and dogs (or people) can get seriously hurt. If any of the dogs are not desexed, desexing them ‘can’ sometimes help or fix the situation, depending on the cause of the aggression between the dogs. If not already done, hire a positive reinforcement trainer ASAP to see if they can help resolve or significantly improve the issue. You’ll need to be committed to following their advice.
If you’ve already tried behaviour training, feeding separately, rotating them through different rooms, and removing key triggers but tension remains, rehoming may be the safest and most realistic option. Sometimes it is safest not to wait until a very big fight if it’s clear the dogs don’t get along very well.
Rehoming one of your dogs doesn’t mean you’ve failed. It can be a responsible choice based on what’s best for both animals. But it’s vital that the dog isn’t simply given away to the first person who shows interest. You’ll also need to decide which dog to rehome. If you have two dogs and one often starts fights while the other is friendly with most dogs, you’ll usually have more success rehoming the more dog-social dog. This increases the chances of a safe, successful placement and gives both dogs a better chance at a stable future. If there has been any history of dog-aggression with the dog you are rehoming, the dog must be carefully matched to a home with no other dogs and assessed to ensure they’re otherwise safe, happy, and manageable.
Go to step 2 to prepare one of the dogs for rehoming.
Aggressive to People and/or Other Animals
If your dog is showing aggression, it’s important to assess the severity and triggers. In some cases, aggression may stem from fear, pain, frustration, or a lack of socialisation and a qualified positive reinforcement trainer or behaviourist may be able to help.
If the aggression is manageable and the animal hasn’t seriously injured a person or another animal, working with a professional can make a big difference. You should never use punishment-based methods (e.g. spray bottles, yanking on a dogs collar or lead or yelling at the dog or doing things to make the dog ‘submit’), as these can make aggression worse.
For smaller dogs, some rescue groups may be able to assist, especially if the behaviour is mild to moderate or influenced by the current living situation. However, rehoming a known aggressive animal can be risky and unethical if it places other people or animals at serious risk.
If your pet has already seriously injured someone or another animal, or if the aggression is severe and unpredictable (especially with medium-large dogs who could cause significant damage in the event of an attack), euthanasia should be considered sometimes as the most responsible and humane option. It’s an incredibly difficult decision, but one that sometimes protects both people and animals from harm.
Always consult with your vet or a professional behaviourist to help guide the decision.
Cat Surrender Reasons
Toileting Outside Litter Tray
Whilst this can be frustrating, there is always an underlying reason. Check out Animal Welfare League NSW’s Inappropriate Toileting guide for general advice that may resolve the issue.
Bites Too Much
Try to identify what’s triggering your cat to bite. If it happens during petting, read this petting-induced aggression in cats guide. If your cat gets overexcited and bites during play, check out the cats who play rough guide. If the biting continues despite these tips, consider consulting a professional cat behaviourist (you can search on Google for one in your area). Make sure any trainer or behaviourist you choose uses only positive reinforcement. Avoid anyone who recommends punishment-based methods like spray bottles or yelling, as these can worsen the behaviour and damage your bond with the cat.
Scratching Furniture/Carpet
Scratching is a normal and healthy behaviour for cats. It helps them stretch, shed old claw layers, and mark territory. However, it’s understandable that it can be frustrating when your cat chooses your furniture or carpet.
Before considering surrender, try redirecting your cat’s scratching to more appropriate places using scratching posts or mats. Placement, texture, and encouragement (like catnip or treats) can make a big difference. Never punish a cat for scratching – it doesn’t work and can damage your relationship. Avoid things like spray bottles or yelling at the cat.
For practical tips and advice, see this helpful guide. Whilst it’s technically made for AWL NSW foster carers, the information is still relevant.
With patience and the right setup, most cats can be taught to scratch more appropriate surfaces.
Cats Not Getting Along
When cats in the same household don’t get along, it creates ongoing stress for the cats and also for you. This can lead to spraying, fighting, litter tray avoidance, and even medical issues triggered by anxiety. While some cats eventually settle down with careful management, others simply aren’t compatible.
If you’ve already tried slow introductions, giving them separate spaces, vertical territory (cat trees, shelves), and calming products like Feliway Friends with no improvement, it might be time to consider rehoming one cat. This isn’t a failure – some cats are truly better off as solo pets or in quieter households and it can be detrimental to keep trying if they really aren’t getting along.
The most important thing is to rehome responsibly. Deciding which cat to rehome depends on the dynamics between them. For example, if you have three cats and one is starting fights with the other two, it may make sense to rehome the instigator. On the other hand, if one cat is being constantly bullied by the others, that cat may do better in a more peaceful, single-cat home.
When rehoming a cat who doesn’t get along with others, it’s usually best they go to a home with no other cats. Be upfront about the behaviour you’ve observed so potential adopters can understand the cat’s personality and whether they’re a good match.
Go to the next step to prepare your cat for rehoming.
Unwanted or Unplanned Litter (Cats)
If your cat has had an unplanned litter of kittens, it’s essential to act early and responsibly. While kittens may seem easier to rehome than puppies, the reality is that thousands of kittens end up in pounds and shelters each year due to accidental litters. It’s not enough to just find “a home” – it’s important to ensure that each kitten gets the right home with the right care and preparation.
Socialisation is key to raising well-adjusted cats. Kittens have a crucial developmental period between 2 and 9 weeks of age. During this time, positive experiences can help shape them into confident, affectionate companions for the rest of their life. Without proper socialisation, they may grow up fearful and scared of people and new experiences. You can make a big difference and help by:
Gently handling the kittens daily. E.g. stroking, picking up gently, touching their paws, ears, and mouth.
Exposing them to different people and voices
Letting them experience normal household sounds (TV, vacuum, doors closing etc.)
Encouraging supervised play with interactive toys and, if safe, other friendly pets
Even kittens born to friendly mothers can grow up poorly socialised if they don’t have enough human interaction during these early weeks. Social kittens are much more adoptable and are more likely to stay in homes long-term.
Each kitten should receive proper vet work before rehoming, including microchipping, vaccinations (potentially two doses, depending on age), worming, flea treatment, and most importantly, desexing. This prevents them from contributing to more unwanted litters and increases their chances of being adopted into a safe, stable home. In all Australian states except NT, microchipping is mandatory before rehoming and failing to do so can result in fines. Other vet work may also be mandatory depending on the laws in the state.
Kittens should stay with their mother until at least 8 weeks of age to learn vital social and developmental skills. Desexing can typically be done from about 10 weeks of age or 1kg, depending on the vet. Rehoming too early or without vet work may be illegal and it increases the risk of neglect or exploitation (e.g. being used for breeding or dumped later).
If this feels overwhelming or financially unmanageable, contact a rescue group rescue group as early as possible. They may be able to assist in one of the following ways:
Support you to foster the litter under their rescue – they’ll usually provide food, flea/worming treatment, cover all vet work, and guide you through the process. When the kittens are ready, they’ll help advertise and match them with suitable homes. This is usually the best option for all as rescue groups are often full.
Take the litter into their care – this depends on space, as most rescue groups are often full.
Provide subsidised vet work – some groups can help with low-cost desexing, vaccinations, and microchipping, while guiding you to rehome responsibly. Not many rescue groups offer this for entire litters though without them coming into care.
Trying to rehome kittens yourself through free ads or social media, without proper vet work, often leads to poor outcomes. Some people wait too long, only reaching out to rescue groups once the kittens are older and much harder to rehome. At that stage, the answer is often, “We could’ve helped if you contacted us months ago!”
So reach out to rescue groups early, ideally with good photos of the kittens and an offer to foster if you’re able. It gives them the best chance at a safe and happy future.
2. Prepare Your Pet For Rehoming
Still need to rehome your pet? If so, the next step is to prepare your pet for rehoming. Start by gathering all the information a potential new owner might need:
Vaccination records and any current medications or medical needs
Desexing certificate – if your pet is not yet desexed, it can be VERY risky to rehome them undesexed. They could then be used for breeding by a backyard breeder or contribute to an ‘accidental’ litter. This would then add to the animal overpopulation problem that makes it much harder for people to rehome their pet when they truly have no other choice, such as yourself. It also increases unnecessary euthanasia in pounds due to there being too many animals. See the benefits of desexing and if you can’t afford the full cost to desex your pet before rehoming, support is usually available through the NDN or Animal Welfare League NSW (if you are near one of their branches). Consider delaying rehoming until you can desex the pet or use the money from a rehoming fee to pay for desexing before handing over the dog.
Microchip number and registration details. If you aren’t sure if your pet is microchipped or don’t know if your details are up-to-date on the microchip register (or which microchip register your pet is on), see the info in How To Update A Microchip. The microchip must be in your name and details before rehoming. It is mandatory in every state in Australia (except NT) for your pet to be microchipped (including before transferring ownership).
Information about your pet’s behaviour, daily routine, likes and dislikes, food preferences and any special care instructions.
Take GREAT photos of your pet. Good photos can be the difference between getting many adoption inquiries and getting none. Check out thesephoto tips.
Write a short, honest bio of your pet, including how they are with kids, dogs, or cats. Need some inspiration or not sure what to write? Check outthis guide (note: it is for AWL NSW foster carers but almost all of the information is still relevant).
3. Reach Out to People You Know First
Start with your inner circle. Contact friends, family, or trusted colleagues as they might be interested or know someone who is. Share your pet’s profile and good photos via text, email, and social media.
4. Contact the Rescue Group, Breeder or Previous Owner
Most rescue groups will take back animals that were adopted from them, and reputable breeders usually will too. If you got the pet from a private individual, it’s worth reaching out to see if they’re willing or able to take the animal back.
5. Advertise Your Pet
If no one you know can help and the person who initially had your pet isn’t able to take your pet back, you’ll need to advertise more widely.
Try PetRescue’s Home2Home program and/or Into Loving Homes. These programs help responsible owners find new homes for their pets and they help promote animals looking for new homes. They can also help guide you through the rehoming process.
In states like NSW, you must include your pet’s microchip number in all online ads or you could face a fine.
You can also expand your reach by posting in local Facebook community groups. To try avoid judgmental comments, keep your wording positive and focused on the pet’s needs. Instead of explaining why you’re rehoming, highlight your pet’s personality and what kind of home would suit them best. Sharing a link to your pet’s profile on Home2Home or Into Loving Homes, along with a few kind words and good photos, can also make your post appear more credible and reduce the chance of negative responses. If you do get any negative comments, be sure to respond with a link to our article on why people shouldn’t abuse people trying to rehome their pet.
Some rescue groups may also be willing to promote your pet on their page if you send them good photos and a detailed pet bio.
Use lots of caution with classified sites like Gumtree for genuine pet lovers who are actually looking for a forever pet.
Set an adoption fee of around $150–$1,000, depending on your pet’s breed, age, size, and health status. Pricing your pet correctly helps attract genuine adopters. If the fee is too high you may get no enquiries. If you set the price to free, it could be more likely to attract people who might not value the pet.
As a guide, cats from rescue groups are usually $150–$600 and dogs are generally $300-900 with vet work included. Smaller dogs and popular “designer dog breeds” sit at the higher end, while senior pets or pets with ongoing health issues may be lower.
To choose a fair fee, find five similar pets on PetRescue from different rescue groups, comparing breed, age and any health or behavioural needs. Aim to price yours within a similar range so it feels reasonable to adopters. If the fee is too high or low in social media posts, you’ll usually get feedback in comments quite quickly and if suitable, adjust the price accordingly.
6. Responding to Enquiries and Screening New Owners
It is important to be both friendly and responsive (especially as people may be enquiring about multiple animals at the same time) to increase the chance of your pet being adopted quicker into a suitable home.
Take the time to ask questions and get to know potential adopters. Ask about their experience with animals, whether they rent or own their home (don’t ask for evidence/paperwork as proof – this could be invasive and in most cases, unnecessary), and what kind of daily routine they can offer your pet. Enquire about any existing animals in the home and what they are like with other pets.
Arrange a meet-and-greet with the potential adopter to see how they interact with your pet. This can take place at a neutral location or at their home – whichever feels safest and most appropriate for you.
If you’re rehoming a dog and the adopter already has one, it’s ideal to arrange a carefully managed introduction in a neutral space to see how the dogs respond to each other. However, for cats (or dog-cat introductions), it’s best not to introduce them right away “to see if they get along.” Cats need slow, gradual introductions in a controlled environment, which is best done after adoption over weeks or months using proven, positive reinforcement introduction techniques.
Trust your instincts. If something doesn’t feel right about the adopter or the environment, it’s okay to keep looking. At the same time, remember that no home will be absolutely perfect. If you’re too strict, you may unintentionally miss a genuinely loving home that could provide a great life for your pet.
7. Finalise the Transfer Properly
Once you’ve found a suitable home:
Transfer microchip details into the new owner’s name through the relevant microchip registry. This is very important and is a legal requirement in every state and territory except the NT. When completing the transfer, it’s a good idea to sight the adopter’s photo ID to make sure it matches the details you’re entering on the microchip.
Hand over your pet’s records, vaccination certificates, desexing certificate, medication (if any) and any personal items like bedding or favourite toys.
Stay in touch during the initial settling-in period to answer any questions the new owner may have and offer to be contacted down the track if things aren’t working out.
If your pet had insurance, make sure you cancel or transfer the policy. If you’re not sure how pet insurance works, you can read our guide on whether you need pet insurance in Australia.
Need Extra Help?
If you’re struggling to rehome your pet on your own or the situation is urgent and can’t wait, contact a local rescue group or animal shelter. Ask if they have space to take in your pet OR if they are willing to take in your pet with you as the foster carer.
If your dog is a purebred (e.g. labrador, german shepherd, or a brachycephalic breed like a french bulldog or pug), you may also be able to reach out to breed-specific rescues, which specialise in helping particular breeds.
While most rescue groups are at or near capacity and may not be able to take your pet into care, some may be able to help by sharing your pet’s profile with their network of followers and adopters. Be prepared for delayed responses, rejections, or no reply at all, as rescue groups receive far more surrender requests than they can accommodate and most are run by volunteers who may have full-time jobs outside of their rescue volunteer work.
To increase your chances of getting help:
Contact multiple rescue groups
Include good photos of your pet
Include a well-written animal bio and mention if your pet is desexed, microchipped and up-to-date with vaccinations.
If all other options have been exhausted, you can contact your local council or council-run animal shelter (note: this may not be located within your council area) to discuss surrendering your pet. However, this should be considered a last resort, as the risk of euthanasia can be significantly higher depending on the shelter’s capacity, policies, and your pet’s age, breed, and behaviour.
Whenever possible, try rehoming your pet privately or through a rescue group first, to give them the best chance of finding a loving, safe home.
About the author: Brandon has 10+ years of experience in animal welfare and sheltering. He has worked in both council and not-for-profit shelters, fosters palliative care cats, and has extensive experience in pet care, desexing programs, and rehoming dogs and cats. Brandon previously ran an award-winning app company and co-founded Compare Pet Products to help Australians save money on pet essentials. He is passionate about helping people and animals.
